Where the hell am I and Why won’t they leave me alone….

The gate to the Medina in Fes, Morocco

As a child of the 50’s and 60’s I spent many hours in the library reading National Geographic Magazines. The archeology and history were interesting but it was the exotic places that captured my imagination. No, it was not a young boys desire to see by chance the naked breast of tribal women…it was the totally exotic places that peaked my interest. One such place was Morocco with photos of veiled women, colorful villages, medieval medina’s, primitive tanneries and hooded men walking dark narrow passages in the Casbah. This was fertile ground for a would be vagabond.

While visiting friends in Portugal on this trip I decided to jump over to Morocco to enjoy a National Geographic moment. I flew into Fes, one of the ancient Imperial cities of the country, and was immediately overwhelmed by the culture. To say that the country is a big hassle is an understatement. Fes is a city of 1.1 million people and the oldest of the Imperial Cities…in fact it is one of the oldest and largest medieval cities in the world. The city is divided into three distinct sections…8th century Fez el Bali (old Fes), 13th century Fez el Jdid (new Fes) and 20th century Ville Nouvelle (French section). I stayed in the Fez el Jdid area which is also referred to as the Casbah. Along the 13th century alleyways many of the old homes have been turned into “Riads” the Moroccan version of “Bed & Breakfast” style inns.

Abdul my tour guide for the Medina

The Riads are three or four stories with a roof top terrace. All have a central courtyard with a fountain in the middle and open to the sky. Each level had balconies going around the perimeter connecting rooms and because the houses originally held several generations of the same family there would have been kitchens on more than one level. Today the kitchens are most often on a upper floor so that food can be carried up to the roof for dinning al fresco. Narrow winding tiled stairs leading to each floor were a torture for me. First trying to negotiate the stairs with luggage in hand and then trying not to trip or stumble going up them because each riser was a different height and tread was a different width…one of the Moroccan hassles.

Copper post being hammered out in the Medina

Leaving the “Riad” and exploring the city was next…even with a map in hand it was impossible to explore a 8th and 13th century city with no street signs and dim passages with little or no day light getting in. I was constantly pulling out the map to figure out where I was and as soon as I did that, I was descended upon by touts and con men trying to attach themselves to the unwitting tourist. They alway start out with “where you from” to build a relationship and then begin to offer a list of places they want to give you directions to, even if you have no intention of going there. What they really want is to try to accompany you to somewhere where you will buy something that will earn them a commission.  If you don’t buy something then they start demanding money from you for being a guide. As soon as someone would start their spiel I would say “No thank you” which they would ignore until I would in a loud voice start with “leave me alone” followed by “leave me the f@#k alone”. It was if they had attached themselves to you with super-glue. Another of the big hassles in Morocco. I was constantly bewildered and asking myself…Where the Hell am I and why won’t they leave me alone?

11th century Chouary Tannery

Inside the Medina the quintessential tourist destination and photo op is the the Tanners Quarters. The 11th century Chouara Tannery is depicted in every magazine article on Morocco. Terra-cotta vats holding dyes in bold colors and various solutions to tan hides fill a square.  Half naked men stir the dye and move hides from vat to vat, while tourist view the scene from balconies overlooking the tannery. Some vats contain a mixture of cow urine and quicklime used to remove the hair from the skin and others contain a softening wash of acidic pigeon excrement. To say it is odiferous would be an understatement. When you go to the shops you are given sprigs of fresh mint to crush and hold under your nose to temper the stench. My advice to you…use it!

Hammering out Iron Kettles in the Medina

One thing I noticed immediately is that the Medina is a place where time has stood still. Modernity has been pushed aside in favor of tradition. Food is sold from small stalls and on the pavement instead of supermarkets…bread, produce, fish or meat are all laid out in a manor destined to cause the germaphobes amongst us a huge anxiety attack. The crafts are still produced with centuries old technique’s. The metal is pounded, hammered and shaped by hand, textiles and rugs are still woven on hand looms and leather is still processes with urine and vegetable dye. To reconcile this slow almost ancient lifestyle with the accelerated breakneck pace at which most of us live our lives takes a great deal of thought and examination before we can arrive at acceptance.

Fish seller in the Fes Medina

If you walk into a shop be prepared to fight for your life. They will do everything in their power to hassle you into a purchase and the haggling over the price is mind numbing. Shopping is one of the hassles that makes it less than enjoyable to visit this ancient city. I understand the dynamics of underdeveloped countries suffering from crippling poverty but it does not make it any easier to deal with. Since the country gained its independence from France in 1956 the combination of corruption and substandard educations has helped keep the country impoverished. Their economy is derived from agriculture, phosphates and tourism and offers limited opportunity for young people to be fully employed.

Green bean seller in the Fes Medina

If you are overwhelmed by the commercial aspects of the city and need to escape to a oasis of calm then I suggest you walk from the Casbah to Jnan Sbil Gardens which is about a fifteen minute walk away. The 18.5 acre gardens were renovated in 2018 and have a mix of flowerbeds, weeping willow trees, palms and citrus trees that fills the air with the scent of orange blooms. There are plenty of shaded benches to sit on so bring a sandwich and get some fresh cool orange juice from a street vendor to go with it and chill out.

Jnan Sbil Jardin

In most countries where I travel a large portion of the sites to see are religious in nature…chapels, temples, mosques, cathedrals etc…so I was surprised that it was not the case in Morocco. The King has decreed that no non-muslim may go into the religious buildings of the country. It is a pity because the mosques and madrases are some of the oldest buildings and the most beautiful.

No infidels allowed at the entrance to a mosque in the Medina

Mark Bennet a friend and fellow traveler ( Kathmandu and Beyond) told me over a beer one afternoon in Chiang Mia that of all the countries that he has visited, and he has been in over 100 countries, Morocco was the one he disliked the most. He used very descriptive and colorful language to convey his impressions and I thought it might be overkill. That was until I too visited Morocco and began to feel the same way. But I also felt guilty! I felt I was not giving the country a chance! I felt I was betraying my old childhood dreams and National Geographic fantasies. So I decided to head on to Marrakesh the jet set capital of North Africa to perhaps get a different opinion. I’m was still open to the old dreams after all.

A warning…Taking photos in Morocco can cause problems. Many Moroccans do not wish for you to take their photos and get very testy when you try….especially women.